Home Team Bio Medical Research Route Everest Training Previous Experience News Slideshow Our Sponsors School Outreach Contact Us :: Christian Otto :: Eric Otto :: Craig Hare :: Stephen Masselink :: ICP at High Altitude :: Heart and Lungs at Altitude :: Remote Ultrasound :: Medical Care :: Operational Space Medicine :: Climbing Route :: Ice Climbing :: Mountain Skiing :: Ski Competitions :: Explorers Club :: Great Lakes Yachting :: Hauscaran :: Magnetic North Pole :: Mt. McKinley :: Labuje Expedition :: Paddling the Nahanni :: South Pole Station :: Mt. Logan :: Cho Oyu :: Alpamayo :: Satellite Communications Testing :: High Altitude Test Chamber :: Dispatch #1 - Beating the odds :: Dispatch #2 - First day in Nepal :: Dispatch #3 - Day 1 of the Trek into Base Camp :: Dispatch #4 - Day 6 Enroute from Pangboche to Pheriche :: Dispatch #5 - Day 7 Continuing the Trek into Base Camp :: Dispatch #6 - Day 9 Arrival at Base Camp :: Dispatch #7 - Day 10 Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp :: Dispatch #8 - Day 11 Third Day at Everest Base Camp :: Dispatch #9 - Day 12 FedEx delivers to Everest Base Camp :: Dispatch #10 - Day 14 Team Enters Khumbu Icefall :: Dispatch #11 - Day 15 Remote Ultrasound Scanning :: Dispatch #12 - Day 16 Climb to Pumori Base Camp :: Dispatch #13 - Day 17 Medical Emergency :: Dispatch #14 - Day 18 Continued Illness and Birthday Wishes :: Dispatch #15 - Day 21 Camp I and Climbing Permit :: Dispatch #16 - Day 23 Mountain Surgery! :: Dispatch #17 - Day 25 Life in Base Camp :: Dispatch #18 - Day 26 Climbing Back to Camp I :: Dispatch #19 - Day 27 Climbing to Camp II, 6325m :: Dispatch #20 - Day 28 and 29 Hanging out at Camp II, 6325m :: Dispatch #21 - Day 30 Back Down to Base Camp :: Dispatch #22 - Day 31 Massive Avalanche, Climbers Nearly Killed. :: Dispatch #23 - Day 31 Everest ER. :: Dispatch #24 - Day 35 Descent to Dingboche. :: Dispatch #25 - Day 35 A Tribute to Pearl Hall Elementary. :: Dispatch #26 - Day 38 Return to Base Camp from Dingboche. :: Dispatch #27 - Day 38 Chinese Summit. Time to Climb! :: Dispatch #28 - Day 40 Program crash fixed. Back online. :: Dispatch #29 - Day 40 Operational Space Medicine. :: Dispatch #30 - Day 40 Everest Link with Canadian Space Agency. :: Dispatch #31 - Day 41 Third acclimatization push. :: Dispatch #32 - Day 42 Preparing for Camp III. :: Dispatch #33 - Day 43 Ascent to Camp III. :: Dispatch #34 - Day 44 Descent from Camp III. :: Dispatch #35 - Day 45 No rest for the wicked! :: Dispatch #36 - Day 46 What Base Camp is Really Like. :: Dispatch #37 - Day 47 Second Everest Ultrasound Guidance Session :: Dispatch #38 - Day 48 Doctor almost killed when rock falls on tent...really! :: Dispatch #39 - Day 30 Live Everest Link with Ottawa Hospital Dept. of Emergency Medicine :: Dispatch #40 - Day 36 High Level Government Meeting held at Everest Base Camp :: Dispatch #41 - Day 49 Climb to the Summit of Everest Begins :: Dispatch #42 - Day 50 Audio Dispatch from Camp II :: Dispatch #43 - Day 51 Audio Dispatch from Camp III :: Dispatch #44 - Day 52 Audio Dispatch from Camp IV :: Dispatch #45 - Day 53 Audio Dispatch after successful summit! :: Dispatch #46 - Day 49 and 50 Climb to Camp II and Rest Day :: Dispatch #47 - Day 51 Climb to Camp III :: Dispatch #48 - Day 52 Climb to the South Col :: Dispatch #49 - Day 52 Climb to the Summit :: Dispatch #50 - Day 47 Everest Team Presents at International Space Medicine Summit :: Dispatch #51 - Day 54 Descending to Camp II :: Dispatch #52 - Day 55 Descending to Base Camp :: Dispatch #53 - Day 57 CSA-Everest Operational Space Medicine Project :: Pearl Hall Elementary :: Pearl Hall Elementary Artwork Slideshow :: Contact Expedition Team :: Contact Website Team

Our Sponsors   All Updates   Tuesday May 27, 2008 Day 57 CSA-Everest Operational Space Medicine Project (Dispatch) Sunday May 25, 2008 Day 55 Descending to Base Camp (Dispatch) Saturday May 24, 2008 Day 54 Descending to Camp II (Dispatch) Saturday May 17, 2008 Day 47 Everest Team Presents at International Space Medicine Summit (Delayed Dispatch) Wednesday May 21, 2008 Day 52 Climb to the Summit! (Delayed Dispatch) Wednesday May 21, 2008 Day 52 Climb to the South Col. (Delayed Dispatch) Wednesday May 21, 2008 Day 51, Climb to Camp III (Delayed Dispatch) Monday May 19 and Tuesday May 20, 2008 Day 49 and 50, Climb to Camp II and Rest Day (Delayed Dispatch) Friday May 23, 2008 Day 53, Audio Dispatch after successful summit! (Audio Dispatch) Thursday May 22, 2008 Day 52, Audio Dispatch from Camp IV (Audio Dispatch) Thursday May 22, 2008 Canadian Everest Medical Expedition Slideshow (Pictures) Wednesday May 21, 2008 Day 51, Audio Dispatch from Camp III (Audio Dispatch) Tuesday May 20, 2008 Day 50, Audio Dispatch from Camp II (Audio Dispatch) Monday May 19, 2008 Day 49, Climb to the Summit of Everest Begins (Dispatch) Sunday May 18, 2008 Day 36, High Level Government Meeting held at Everest Base Camp (Dispatch) Sunday May 18, 2008 Day 30, Live Everest Link with Ottawa Hospital Dept. of Emergency Medicine (Dispatch) Sunday May 18, 2008 Day 48, Doctor almost killed when rock falls on tent…really! (Dispatch) Saturday May 17, 2008 Day 47, Second Everest Ultrasound Guidance Session (Dispatch) Friday May 16, 2008 Day 46, What Base Camp is Really Like. (Dispatch) Thursday May 15, 2008 Day 45, No rest for the wicked! (Dispatch) Wednesday May 14, 2008 Day 44, Descent from Camp III (Dispatch) Tuesday May 13, 2008 Day 43, Ascent to Camp III (Dispatch) Monday May 12, 2008 Day 42, Preparing for Camp III (Dispatch) Sunday May 11, 2008 Day 41, Third acclimatization push. (Dispatch) Saturday May 10, 2008 Day 40, Everest Link with Canadian Space Agency. (Dispatch) Saturday May 10, 2008 Day 40, Operational Space Medicine. (Dispatch) Saturday May 10, 2008 Day 40, Program crash fixed, back online. (Dispatch) Thursday May 8, 2008 Day 38, Return to Base Camp from Dingboche (Dispatch) Monday May 5, 2008 Day 35, A Tribute to Pearl Hall Elementary (Dispatch) Monday May 5, 2008 Day 35, Descent to Dingboche (Dispatch) Thursday May 1, 2008 Day 31, Everest ER (Dispatch) Thursday May 1, 2008 Day 31, Special Dispatch - Massive Avalanche (Dispatch) Wednesday April 30, 2008 Day 30, Back Down to Base Camp (Dispatch) April 28 and 29, 2008 Day 28 and 29, Hanging out at Camp II - 6325m (Dispatch) Sunday April 27, 2008 Day 27, Climbing to Camp II (Dispatch) Saturday April 26, 2008 Day 26, Climbing Back to Camp I (Dispatch) Friday April 25, 2008 Day 25, Life in Base Camp (Dispatch) Wednesday April 23, 2008 Day 23, Mountain Surgery! (Dispatch) Monday April 21, 2008 Day 21, Camp I and Climbing Permit (Dispatch) Friday April 18, 2008 Day 18, Continued Illness and Birthday Wishes (Dispatch) Thursday April 17, 2008 Day 17, Medical Emergency (Dispatch) Wednesday April 16, 2008 Day 16, Climb to Pumori Base Camp (Dispatch) Tuesday April 15, 2008 Day 15, Remote Ultrasound Scanning (Dispatch) Monday April 14, 2008 Day 14, Team Enters Khumbu Icefall (Dispatch) Saturday April 12, 2008 Day 12, FedEx Delivers to Everest Base Camp (Dispatch) Friday April 11, 2008 Day 11, Third Day at Everest Base Camp (Dispatch) Thursday April 10, 2008 Day 10, Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp (Dispatch) Wednesday April 9, 2008 Day 9, Team Arrives at Everest Base Camp (Dispatch) Monday April 7, 2008 Day 7, Continuing the Trek into Base Camp (Dispatch) Sunday April 6, 2008 Day 6, Enroute from Pangboche to Periche (Dispatch) Tuesday April 1, 2008 Day 1, Trek into Base Camp (Dispatch) Saturday March 29, 2008 First full day in Nepal (Dispatch) Friday March 28, 2008 Team Arrives in Kathmandu (Dispatch) Latest Updates Tuesday May 13, 2008 - Dispatch #33 Day 43, Ascent to Camp III Dear Family, Friends and Colleagues, This morning we were ready for the Lhotse face, like a hockey team is ready for the first round of the NHL playoffs. Eric and I were up early to make our 5am departure time. We did not want to be caught in hot weather on the Lhotse face. Mike was the only other person ready when we left, so the three of us trudged forward towards the face from Camp II. Stopping to adjust gear at the bottom of the Lhotse face. A long line of climbers can be seen ascending the face. We wound our way upwards for nearly two hours. It was slow plodding as the air was only becoming thinner, and our packs continued to weigh the same. We took a welcomed break at the headwall, had a drink, slap on some more sunscreen, tighten our packstraps, and check our harness…. Time to climb! Ascending the first slope of the Lhotse face. Fresh snow made the climbing easier. There was a line of climbers at the head wall, and one climber was moving painfully slow despite not having a pack on. Fortunately, he stopped to adjust some items before getting on the fixed lines. For those who are unfamiliar with fixed lines, these are ropes placed on the route which are attached to the mountain using ice screws or snow stakes every 100 feet or so. A climber uses an ascender, a device that clips into the rope and slides in one direction-uphill. It locks in the downward direction and therefore provides protection for the climber in the case of a slip or a fall. The ascender is attached to a piece of rope that is attached to the climber’s harness. For added safety, a second line from the climber’s harness is attached to a carabiner that is clipped to the fixed rope. Looking down the steep Lhotse face at Camp II to the right, with afternoon clouds floating up the Western CWM. The first slope was steep but the climbing was made easier by fresh snow that had fallen the day before which made for good steps. We climbed steadily for a couple of hours stopping every 45 minutes to an hour for a short break. We soon realized we had put a lot of altitude between us and Camp II when we looked back down the Western CWM. Fellow Canadian and experienced Everest climber Andrew Brash on a steep Lhotse face icewall with Mt Everest standing to the left like a Himalayan sentinel. It started to heat up and the clothes pealed off like a day at the beach. The mountain showed no mercy as the climbing only became steeper with several vertical sections. Unfortunately, John and later Ken decided to turn around and head back to Camp II instead of continuing to Camp III. Sometimes, discretion is the better part of valour. Climbers high on the Lhotse face in cold and snow. Because the steep Lhotse face is so difficult to place camps on, not all teams can have their camp in one location. We ended up being one of the teams with the highest encampments at Camp III. Good for the summit push, but not so good today, especially as we definitely have the lowest camp at Camp II - result: big delta in altitude gain! Christian Otto enjoying a hot cup of tea at Camp III, 7200m, after a long day of climbing. Eric took a fabulous photo of Andrew Brash on one of the steep ice walls with Everest herself juxtaposed; man and mountain in unison. The Otto Brothers, Eric and Christian celebrating a new height on Everest, 7200m. Fortunately for us, once again, the afternoon clouds ascended faster than we could climb, and provided a layer of added cover. It also started to snow lightly. This  was good thing as I only had half a bottle of water left and at least another 2 hours of climbing. By now, Eric and Andrew were up ahead, Mike was behind and several other team members had turned around. One of the keys is to keep climbing steadily and not exceed your limit. I passed an old camp that had been demolished and was once again reminded of Everest’s awesome power. Andrew Brash and Mike Browden hydrating at Camp III, the Everest summit dominating the background. It was hard to see with the weather, and I passed yet another row of tents, a figure appeared among the tents and hollered. Ahh, it was Eric, which meant this was the end of a long day; it was 1pm. One of the team sherpas had started a brew and handed me a hot cup of tea. It felt good to be this high on Everest. You knew you were in a different zone, like winning the first round of the playoffs. Eric Otto lounging in his down suit waiting for snow to melt, and catching the view out the tent door. Perhaps sensing we deserved a better view of the upper mountain that few will see, the clouds slowly parted and Chomolongma smiled down on us, it was more Cheshire cat-like than cherubic, I think, however. We were treated to an afternoon and early evening of clear skies, while below us the clouds hung over the lower camps. We all soaked up the splendor of the afternoon drinking tea and taking photos. We also had a pot of snow on constant melt to provide several litres of liquids for drinking and dinner. Eric tended to the stove and had a perfect view from the comfort of his downsuit. Watching the sunset over the Himalayas while the snow melts for dinner. Time to retire. But we noticed the increased breathing the whole time we were p at Camp III. Hmmm, Camp II was 9% oxygen, and we were now at about 8%. Also, given our camp was so high, 900m more than Camp II, we had broken the rule of thumb in high altitude climbing: No more than 300m gain per night. Three times the recommended altitude. We had discussed this with Arnold the expedition leader, but there was only so much room on the mountain. Good thing we had oxygen in the camp should anyone develop serious high altitude illness. As it was, our oxygen saturation was critically low. In my sleeping bag it was 61%, and I had a heart rate of 94. In the emergency room we would be practically administering last rights at that saturation. Miraculously, both Eric and I were able to sleep through the night. The next time we ascend to Camp III, the standard plan is to sleep on oxygen. By pushing ourselves to go without oxygen, as is the standard plan, one is able to increase their acclimatization. Christian Otto lies in his sleeping bag with an oxygen saturation that is normally inconsistent with life, 61%, and a heart rate of 94 beats per minute….yikes! We made it to Camp III. The next time we are here, it will be to continue on to the summit. Best wishes to all, Christian Otto